The Book of Sifty

A story for the weekend 9:50AM

Long, long ago, out west in Guadalajara country before Mexico was Mexico, when Spain worshipped Mohammed, there was a spectacular thunderstorm typical of that mountainous region that hugs the Pacific shore. It was a storm like no other, with one magical bolt of lightning striking a wild blue agave plant and turning its guts to a seething mass from which came a drink that passed the lightings power to all who drank it.

That was the first tequila, a drink that has gained a global reputation as a spirit worthy of comparison with the best whisky, brandy and rum. Well some of it, whereas most of it is a charming, earthy, tastes that gives character to and kick to a range of dazzling cocktails, of which the Margarita is the most famous.

Tequila is made from the blue agave plant ' not a cactus, but a spectacular member of the lily family that grows a large, fleshy stem within it burst of flamboyant spikes. For tequila, it must be grown in the highland region of Jalisco state near the town of tequila, although some tequila production has been permitted in one eastern state since 1977.

Although it has a reputation as firewater, tequila is actually more closely regulated than most spirits, and the process is long and particular. The agave plants are eight years old before they are mature enough for harvesting, when the hearts (pi'a) are trimmed of their long, spiky leaves and roasted in huge ovens before being pounded and their sugar content fermented into a scummy brown solution from which pure, clear tequila is distilled.

Legally, all tequila is double-distilled and some are put through the process as many as four times. Both continuous and pot stills are used, and the craft of distillation is as proudly maintained as in Jalisco as it is in the Scottish highlands, producing similar range of qualities and characters.

Simple tequila is labelled tequila blanca, and the aim here is for purity of the fleshy warm, earthy flavour that is tequila's hallmark. It often shows a dash of charcoal as well. Reposado is the next stage where the tequila has been aged, usually in large oak or cedar vats, for a period. Reposado is softer, with subtle spice and wood flavours, and usually the colour of dirty water, but often with much better flavour momentum, making this the best base for cocktails, especially if you like your Margarita to have flavour to match its lime zest.

The ultimate for tequila sippers is A'ejo. Aged at least one year, usually three, in small American oak barrels, it has a silky texture to match its rich flavour and a string of subtle details that deserve late-night sipping. In this case the lightning goes straight to your heart ' or soul, without blasting your mouth on the way through.

Try this - El Tesoro de Don Felipe Tequila A'ejo
Fine, powerful tequila with a rich agave aroma that has elements of olive, tangerine peel and warm, red earth. The flavours are equally powerful and elegant, with wonderful clarity of agave flesh, great length, silk and subtlety as well as the comfortable earthiness that is tequila's best asset. This is standout stuff ' if you don't like el Tesoro, you don't like tequila. Price : $4.50 a shot.
(Keith Stewart)

Well normally, by the time in a good night when the tequila starts being purchased, its not for sipping. Which is good since its undoubtedly crap tequila. All I know is my head inevitably feel likes it been hit by a lightning bolt the next day.

Also where the hell do you buy $4.50 shots of tequila from? Because I'm there with bells on!